Moscatel de Setúbal is a Portuguese Muscat wine produced on the Peninsula de Setúbal. This fortified wine holds the highest status of protected designation in the country, DOC. Moscatel de Setúbal is usually enjoyed as a dessert wine, pairing well with several ingredients, from chocolate to the egg rich Portuguese conventual sweets. In this article you will find everything you need to know about Setubal’s Moscatel.
What is Moscatel de Setúbal
Moscatel de Setúbal is a fortified wine like Porto, Madeira, and Carcavelos. That means that during it’s production it is fortified with grape brandy, known in Portugal as aguardente vínica. Due to its high alcohol content, when added to the wine the brandy kills the yeast, stopping the fermentation process. This results in a much stronger and sweeter wine that’s perfect to enjoy before a meal or afterwards with a dessert course.
Although its production share similarities with other Portuguese fortified wines, Moscatel de Setúbal is a unique vinho generoso. And since it’s a protected wine or a DOC (Denominação de Origem Controlada) for it to be considered authentic it must comply with a series of specifications, from grape varieties to minimum aging duration.
The History of Moscatel de Setúbal
Although it’s not clear when exactly Muscat grape cultivation began in the region. It’s believed that grapes and grape cultivation arrived on the Iberian Peninsula around 2.000 BC. Many centuries later, the Moscatel produced in Setúbal proved to be a hit with European monarchs including Richard II of England who imported Portuguese muscat wine on a regular basis during his reign. It’s also said to have been a staple at the lavish feasts of Louis XVI at Versailles.
During the Age of Discoveries, the wine made its way to the Portuguese colonies. It is said that the long journeys the wine barrels endured and their exposure to the climate, actually improved the wine’s complexity. The official recognition as a DOC came only in 1907 when the region was officially demarcated. Setúbal’s wine region is the second oldest demarcated region in the country followed by Dão (demarcated in 1908).
The Making of Moscatel de Setúbal
Described by French author Léon Douarche as the ‘sun in a bottle’, Moscatel de Setúbal has a golden colour when young and is highly aromatic with floral, honey, citrus, and fruity notes. When aged its colour changes into amber, sometimes deep brown or tawny depending on how old they are. As they age, the wines develop deeper and more complex aromas, resembling dried fruits, nuts, and even coffee and chocolate.
The Terroir
Moscatel de Setúbal is produced in the Setúbal Peninsula wine region, which is sandwiched between the rivers Tagus and Sado, and bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and the Serra da Arrábida mountain range. The region enjoys a Mediterranean climate with mild wet winters and hot dry summers. The maritime influence helps moderate hot temperatures creating ideal conditions for the vines to thrive, resulting in wines with great acidity.
Within the Setúbal D.O there are two distinct terroirs, on the eastern plains around Sado River you have sandy soils with great drainage. On the southern coast of the peninsula you have the sloping hills of Serra da Arrábida with the nutrient rich clay-limestone soils.
Grape Varieties
There are two types of Moscatel de Setúbal – white and purple. The white variety is made with Muscat of Alexandria grapes locally known as Moscatel de Setúbal. The purple variety is made with the rarer Moscatel Roxo grapes which are a mutation of Muscat of Alexandria.
For both varieties a minimum of 85% is required for the wines to be labelled as Moscatel de Setúbal. The remaining 15% can include other authorized regional grapes. Although most producers opt for using 100% Moscatel de Setúbal grapes. Wines with lower percentages of Moscatel (between 67% to 85%) are simply labelled ‘Setúbal’ and the name Moscatel is omitted from the label.
Fortification, Maceration and Aging
Moscatel de Setúbal is a fortified wine like Porto, Carcavelos, and Madeira. That means it’s fortified with grape brandy which halts its fermentation, which increases both the sugar content and the alcohol level. After fortification the wine remains in contact with the grape skins for between three to six months, extracting maximum flavour and aroma.
After maceration White Moscatel de Setúbal must age for at least 18 months while Moscatel Roxo de Setúbal needs a minimum of 36 months. The longer this fortified wine ages the more complex it becomes, and notes of nuts, spices, fig compotes, marmalade, and even coffee, emerge. Apart from the distinction between White and Purple, Moscatel de Setúbal can be further classified as Superior, Reserve, Non-Dated and Dated. Let’s dive deeper into the different types and how they differ from one another.
Moscatel de Setúbal – Understanding the Different Classifications
As well as the indication ‘Moscatel de Setúbal D.O’ wines may also be labelled with the classifications Superior and Reserva. For both these classifications, the wines must obtain the Outstanding Quality Classification during blind tasting by the Regional Wine Commision. In addition to that, Superior wines must have a minimum of five years of age. The labels may also contain year of harvest, meaning that the lot was produced from a single harvest of said year. Wines containing a blend of grapes of different harvests won’t display the date. On top of that, aged Muscat wines from Setúbal can be classified by age, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, and +40 years.
How to Enjoy Moscatel de Setúbal
The Portuguese Muscat wine from Setúbal can be enjoyed both as an aperitif or as a dessert wine. Young wines, below 5 years of age, are best enjoyed as an aperitif and should be served between 10º-12ºC. Superior and older wines are generally favoured over younger ones when it comes to desserts. Their ideal serving temperature are slightly higher, between 12º-14ºC.
Now when it comes to glassware, to fully appreciate the aromas and flavours of Moscatel de Setúbal it’s important to pick the right glasses. There isn’t a specific glass designed for Moscatel de Setúbal. So, I recommend choosing glasses made for dessert wines as they usually have smaller bowls, and a slightly tapered rim which helps concentrating the aromas. Port wine glasses are also a good call!
Harmonizing Moscatel de Setúbal
When it comes to pairing Moscatel de Setúbal with desserts and petiscos there are infinite possibilities. Orange based cakes and desserts will compliment the orange blossom notes present in young wines. The acidity of Setúbal’s Muscat wines makes them the perfect pairing for the egg and sugar rich Portuguese conventual desserts – especially the likes of Torta de Azeitão. A regional cake made in Azeitão, a small village in the municipality of Sétubal.
A glass of aged Moscatel de Setúbal will taste even more delicious with a slice of a classic Bolo de Bolacha. They say what grows together goes together, for a savoury pairing, try Azeitão cheese, a cured cheese also produced in Setúbal.
Top Producers of Moscatel de Setúbal
Differently from Carcavelos, Moscatel de Setúbal has several active producers, the oldest and most emblematic is José Maria da Fonseca. They produce a wide variety of moscatel, including Purple Moscatel de Setúbal, and even the exclusive Moscatel Torna Viagem. This particular moscatel ages in barrels carried onboard of ships who replicate some of Portugal’s voyages during the Age of Discovery. Aiming to replicate the unique aging process moscatel wines went through back then.
Bacalhôa is another leading producer, with wines such as their Bacalhôa Superior 10 Anos that are a benchmark for aged Moscatel. Both these brands are widely available in Portugal, from local supermarkets to big wine retailers with online shops such as Garrafeira Nacional. Both of them have estates in Azeitão, so if you are in the area, I highly recommend booking a moscatel wine tour.
Wine Tours and Tastings in Setúbal
Most producers offer wine tours and tastings. Here’s some of the best places where you can learn more about the wines produced in the region and get to sample Moscatel de Setúbal.
- José Maria da Fonseca – The oldest producer of Moscatel de Setúbal. They offer guided tours of the family manor and historic wine cellars that end with tastings of their wines. I highly recommend the guided tour, you will get to know more about how their wines were produced in the 19th century, walk around their cellars housing moscatel wines dating as far back as 1880, and peruse around the estate and its stunning gardens. If wine tours aren’t your thing, you can go directly to their wineshop where you can taste JMF’s wines by the glass.
- Venâncio da Costa Lima – This family-run winery offers tours for those interested in the behind-the-scenes of wine as well as tasting it. You also have the option of sampling Azeitão cheese, local sausages, bread and biscuits.
- Bacalhôa – One of the largest producers in the region, Bacalhôa combines wine tastings with art. Their most popular tour includes visits to their Winery Museum and Palace, ending with wine tastings. There are several packages to choose from depending on how many wines you choose, and if you want to pair them with Azeitão cheese, nuts and dried fruits.
Should You Try Moscatel de Setúbal
If you never tried Moscatel de Setúbal, you are missing out on one of Portugal’s best wines. This sweet, fortified wine is full of flavour, with notes of orange blossom, caramel, dried fruits, and warm spices. It’s great after a meal or with desserts like almond tart, chocolate, or even a bit of cheese. Aged versions are especially delicious, with rich, layered flavors like figs, toffee, and roasted nuts. If you enjoy bold, aromatic wines or just want something a little different, Moscatel de Setúbal is definitely worth a try.