It’s impossible to visit Portugal and not fall in love with pastéis de nata. Yes, pastéis (plural of pastel), since it’s simply not possible to eat just one when they are made in front of your eyes and are available fresh out of the oven.
In Lisbon, you will now find hundreds of places to sample a pastel de nata, and of course a heated debate: Where to eat the best custard tarts? To some people there’s only one possible answer, the OG ‘Pastéis de Belém’. To others there’s no need to leave Lisbon central to eat the very best. While to the untrained eye (or taste buds) they may all taste the same, there are subtle differences that make a pastel stand out, the consistency of the custard, how flaky the pastry shell is, and even the burned top. In this article I will go over my favourite pastel de nata spots in Lisbon and what’s so special about them!
What is a Pastel de Nata?
Before I dive into my list of the best places to eat pastel de nata in Lisbon, let’s go over this iconic Portuguese pastry. Pastéis de Nata are small tarts made with a puff pastry shell filled with egg custard and baked until slightly charred. They are simply addictive! Especially when served warm with a dusting of cinnamon powder. Pastéis go beautifully with an espresso, and when you feel a little extra, with a glass of port. They are one of the many Portuguese pastries invented in a convent (doces conventuais).
What’s the Difference Between Pastéis de Belém and Pastéis de Nata?
Pastéis de Belém are the original custard tarts. They were invented in a monastery in the Belém neighbourhood (Mosteiro dos Jerónimos) in the 1830s, and later sold (the recipe) to a sugar refinery which founded the pastry shop we know today as Pastéis de Belém.
The secret recipe has remained the same since the 19th century. Pastéis de Nata are the generic name for custard tarts, meaning ‘cream pastries’. Now, the name Pastéis de Belém can only be used when talking about pastéis produced by Pastéis de Belém. Although some people argue they are distinct pastries, essentially, they are the same pastry. A piece of advice though, don’t make the mistake calling the original Pastéis de Nata, the Portuguese are very protective of pastéis de belém – as they should be.
O Melhor Pastel de Nata – The Best Pastel de Nata in Lisbon
Now back to our debate on where one eats the best custard tarts in Lisboa. There isn’t a consensus, not even among the locals, and it all comes down to personal preferences. Some people prefer a thicker pastry; others want a runnier custard. To me the temperature the pastel is served makes all the difference.
In this guide you will find my favourite places to eat pastéis de nata, some of them are even winners on the contest of ‘The Best Pastel de Nata in Lisbon’. Yes, there is a contest which is held yearly. My advice is that you should try at least a couple of places, part of the fun is eating lots of tarts to compare them and decide what’s your favourite.
My Personal Top 3 That You Have to Try!
If you could only pick three, here’s what I would go for!
- Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata
- Castro – Atelier de Pastéis de Nata
- Pastelaria Aloma
The Best Places to Eat Pastéis de Nata in Lisbon
If you’re interested in the full run down – and why, read the full guide to the best Pastéis de Nata in Lisbon below.
Pastéis de Belém (Antiga Confeitaria de Belém)
First on the list is the original custard tarts from Belém. Purists will argue it shouldn’t be included on a guide to pastel de nata since it’s a pastel de Belém. However, these two pastries are essentially the same thing. The difference is that pastéis de Belém are protected by trademark and a closely guarded secret recipe.
That means Antiga Confeitaria de Belém is the only place in the world that can produce pasteis de belém. These custard tarts are flakier, densier, slightly more eggy and less sweet than most pastéis de nata. They not only sell pastéis but also dozens of different pastries, sandwiches, toasties and so on. It’s a great place to grab breakfast before visiting the monastery where the pastries were invented. They cost €1.50 and are absolutely delicious. A common mistake there is to order pastéis de nata. So, make sure to order ‘pastéis de Belém’ (/pah-SHTAYSH deh beh-LAING/).
Where: Belém
Price per Tart: €1.50
Manteigaria – Fábrica de Pastéis de Nata
If you ask the people of Lisbon who has the best pastel de nata, there’s a great chance they will answer Manteigaria. Founded in 2014, the brand has several shops across Lisbon and Porto, and recently even opened ”factories” in Madrid and Paris. They are also in Belém, in fact within a minutes walk from Pastéis de Belém if you want to try both pastéis side by side!
The only pastry you will find there is pastel de nata, but they are made to perfection. The custard is creamier with hints of lemon, the pastry shell super crispy, and they are always served warm. Another thing I love about Manteigaria is that you get to see the pastéis being made through a big glass window – a feature that can be found in all there shops. The tarts cost €1.40 and can be paired with coffee, port, and ginjinha – Lisbon’s traditional sour cherry liqueur.
Where: Several locations across Lisbon
Price per Tart: €1.40
Pastelaria Aloma
Aloma is the defending champion of Lisbon’s best pastel de nata contest ‘O Melhor Pastel de Nata’. The brand, which has won another three times in the past, opened its first pastry shop in Lisbon’s traditional neighbourhood Campo de Ourique, in 1943.
Since then, the shop has expanded to other three locations across Lisbon. Aloma is a proper pastelaria (traditional Portuguese cafés) so you will find there a wide selection of pastries, savoury snacks, sandwiches, toasties, salads, and so on. It’s their pastéis de nata, that steals the show!
Where: Campo de Ourique, São Sebastião, Estefânia, and Oriente
Price per Tart: €1.30
Castro – Atelier de Pastéis de Nata
I know many people that would say Castro has the best pastel de nata in Lisbon without giving it a second thought. One of the newest pastéis de nata houses in the city, they opened in 2022 (2019 in Porto) and already have two shops or ateliers in Baixa.
Once again, they only sell only custard tarts which can also be paired with coffee, hot chocolate, soft drinks, and tea, or if you’re feeling a little more special a glass of port or ginjinha. All served in beautiful bespoke crockery from Vista Alegre.
Now back to the pastéis, they have a thin crust and are less sweet than other contenders and are always freshly baked on site. You can’t go wrong with Castro!
Where: Baixa
Price per Tart: €1.70
Pastelaria Alcôa
Located in the heart of Chiado, Alcôa has been in the game since 1957. Self-proclaimed ‘Masters of Conventual Sweets’ they follow traditional methods just like the monks of Alcobaça use to. The result is dozens of golden pastries and sweets that are so beautiful that it’s almost a shame to eat them. No one can be a true master of doces conventuais without making pastéis de nata, and Alcôa’s is just as stunning as it looks.
Where: Chiado, El Corte Inglés
Price per Tart: €1.50
Fábrica da Nata | Pastéis de Nata
Fábrica da Nata is another great spot to include in your Lisbon nata crawl. The first shop opened in Restauradores in 2016, and you will find another two shops or ‘factories’ in the city. While the nata is the star of the menu, they serve other pastelaria classics such as cod cakes, sandwiches, and even soups. The natas are crafted and baked in front of your eyes and always served warm. The pastry shell is buttery and light, and the custard smooth and flavoured with, dare I say, either port or brandy.
Where: Restauradores, Baixa, Colombo Shopping Centre
Price per Tart: €1.40
Balcão do Marquês
Step away from the busy baixa and up Avenida da Liberdade to find Balcão do Marquês, a pastelaria with almost 50 years of tradition. Popular with local business people, you will you find everything, from bread and pastries to steak and cod. Their pastel de nata is as famous as the shop’s green and gold façade. Slightly more charred with a flaky pastry that’s gets a little chewy as you get to the bottom of the tart. It’s just the perfect bite and a lovely reward after walking uphill Lisbon’s most famous avenue.
Where: Marquês de Pombal
Price per Tart: €1.50
Vegan Nata
For the vegan foodies that don’t want to miss out on Lisbon’s best treat, Vegan Nata got you covered. Located at the heart of Chiado in a historical tea and coffee shop, they specialize in vegan pastéis de nata that can be enjoyed alongside with a tipple of port or ginjinha or the classic espresso and espresso-based drinks – all vegan too. As a non-vegan myself I can tell you the flavours are all there, but the custard texture is slightly firmer than the traditional custard tart. Still, it’s a great place to have a vegan friendly pastel de nata.
Where: Chiado
Price per Tart: €1.20
Learning how to make a Pastel de Nata?
If you’re not content with just tasting nata across Lisbon, there’s now several workshops where you can get involved and bake your own! In the heart of Baxia you’ll find Nat’elier where not only can you taste their version, but you can join them in their workshop to make your own!
The whole experience takes around 2 hours, and you’ll make at least 3 natas from scratch. Covering all the steps from rolling out your dough, laminating it, making your custard, and of course trying to bake them at the perfect temperature. If you really want to experience everything Pastéis de Nata this is something you can’t miss!
Will you try them all?
There you have it, my list of the best places to eat a pastel de nata in Lisbon. So, either if you want to go on a pastel de nata crawl, or if you want to eat in an aesthetic shop, perhaps you’re vegan, or simply would like to try the original Pastel de Belém. There’s an option for everyone in this list.
What’s your favourite place to eat Portuguese custard tarts in Lisbon? Let me know in the comments! If you’d like to have a go at making your own pastéis de nata, here’s my recipe!