Folhado de Loulé is a traditional Portuguese pastry made with flaky puff pastry filled with egg custard and served with a dusting of sugar on top. The pastry carries the name of the town in the Algarve where it was invented during the 20th century. It’s perhaps not very popular outside of Loulé, but to me they are one of the best Portuguese pastries, and a close match for the more famous Pastéis de Nata.
The Irresistible Folhados de Loulé
It takes just a bite through the several buttery layers of folhados de Loulé for you to realise they are not just another Portuguese sweet egg pastry. They are super flaky and light, and the egg custard is not too sweet, with hints of lemon and vanilla. If they are slightly warm it’s even better. They are available at several pastelarias in Loulé, and if there is a festivity, it’s almost certain you will find a stall dedicated to them. If I’m nearby I always dive into Loulé to get a box to take home with me!
The Story Behind Loulé’s Famous Pastry
The story of Folhados de Loulé begins in the first decades of the 20th century, when a young lady called Maria Pires first concocted them in the kitchen of her employers. She was the domestic servant of a doctor and his wife and reportedly learned to make puff pastries in Figueira da Foz where the couple had a holiday home. When Maria Pires was let go by her employers, she partnered with her two sisters Paula and Sebastiana to produce and sell her pastries.
Together they would work through the night making the folhados from scratch. After baking them in the town’s communal oven, they would sell them to the local cafés, where the customers would enjoy the folhados while still warm with a cup of coffee. The iconic Café Calcinha was one of these cafés where you could (and still can) find folhados de Loulé.
Loulé’s Pastry in Modern Times
After the folhado sisters passed away, the pastries fell into oblivion for a period of time. It was only in the early 2010’s that they made a comeback. Loulé Doce were behind the revival of the folhado tradition. This pastry shop is the authority when it comes to making folhados, and currently supply several cafés in Loulé. In an effort to promote the pastry, in 2019 it was part of the contest to select the 7 Sweet Wonders of Portugal. The folhados didn’t make it to the shortlist, but were cemented as Loulé’s very own golden pastry. Traditional celebrations in Loulé such as the Carnival and the MED Festival are not complete without Loulé Doce’s folhado.
Where to Sample Folhados de Loulé
You will find the pastries in several cafés and pastelarias in Loulé, however, not all of them are produced by Loulé Doce. They have been perfecting the recipe over the years, and have their own pastry shop in the town where you can buy the folhados. They also have a pop up stand during Loulé’s Carnival, MED Festival and other events.
You will also find them at the historic Café Calcinha, if you don’t want to commit to a whole folhado, they also have miniature versions. They are perfect for an afternoon snack, with a cup of coffee!